Lorighittas con Ragù di Galletto
Lorighittas con Ragù di Galletto
Lorighittas with Rooster Ragù
Lorighittas, intertwined strands of pasta, originated in the mountain village of Morgongiori in southwestern Sardinia. They were customarily made for All Saints’ Day, the first of two consecutive Catholic holidays commemorating the departed. Intricate pasta and bread shapes are typically crafted and baked for such somber events, and producing them is a labor intensive endeavor. The difficulty of the work is mitigated by the community it fosters. In the case of lorighittas, large groups of women gather to make thousands of twisted rings, setting them aside to dry on large baskets, exchanging stories and building friendships as they work. There are two main condiments for lorighittas; the sauce a family makes reflects their economic status with its abundance or presence of meat or saffron. These days, the holidays have declined in importance as the villagers age and young residents head to the mainland for work, and lorighittas are made (year round now) and served with a rooster ragù (one of the few examples anywhere in Italy of poultry accompanying pasta).
Ingredients (8)
Ingredients (8)
Instructions
At least 1 hour in advance, but ideally overnight, season the rooster generously on all sides with salt.
Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the rooster and brown on all sides, 5 to 10 minutes total.
Remove the rooster from the pot and set aside.
Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the onion and season with salt. Cook, stirring, until the onion has softened, about 5 minutes.
Return the rooster to the pan. Add the tomatoes and season with salt.
Cover and simmer until fork-tender, about 1 hour for rooster and 20 to 30 minutes for chicken, checking occasionally to be sure the meat is at least two-thirds submerged and adding water as needed.
Stir in the parsley and basil.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Salt the water until it tastes like a seasoned soup.
Add the lorighittas and cook until they have lost their raw flavor, 3 to 4 minutes.
Drain the pasta and add it to the pot with the rooster and sauce. (Alternatively, you can store the sauce in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days to further develop the flavors before you cook the pasta.)
Plate and serve.
Notes
Notes
I like eating poultry off the bone with my hands, right out of my pasta bowl. If you prefer a more elegant approach, remove the rooster from the pot and transfer it to a cutting board to cool. When cool enough to handle, pick the meat and skin from the bones, discarding the bones. Shred the meat and skin with two forks, then return it to the pot.
This recipe is part of the Food of the Italian Islands digital cookbook, and is only available once you've purchased the cookbook.
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