Su Filindeu in Brodo di Agnello
Su Filindeu in Brodo di Agnello
"Threads of God" Pasta with Lamb Stock
Before visiting the Barbagia, the Sardinian subregion where su filindeu is made, I had read about the pasta. Sources were pretty much in agreement that su filindeu, which translates to “threads of God,” is the rarest pasta on the planet, and is made by just three women. As much as I enjoy the easy access to travel journalism in our modern information age, it’s important to remember to fact-check your sources, because writers and editors don’t always do that essential step for the reader. As with many articles about Italian food culture, the statement was false and hyperbolic. Su filindeu is a regional specialty, for sure. It was born in northeastern Sardinia, where each May and October it is made by hand, dried, and broken into a lamb or mutton broth, which is then spiked with a tangy melted cheese. The dish is distributed to pilgrims for the feast of San Francesco. But the traditional dish is also reliably on the menu at restaurants—Il Rifugio in Nuoro serves it year-round—and even local bars and cafeterias. It’s taught by a handful of food educators like Gianfranca Dettori, my teacher, keen on keeping Sardinian traditions alive. It’s even found in Japan, where Claudia Casu, an ambassador of culture for her native island, teaches classes on making su filindeu and other intricate Sardinian pasta shapes at her Sardegna Cooking School. This once hyper-regional pasta is hardly on the verge of extinction. The shape itself is spectacular, and emblematic of Sardinia’s ritual devotion to food. When dried, the pasta looks like woven textile, and cooked, it feels like velvet on the palate. Su filindeu is beautiful. Help keep it alive wherever you are and make it at home.
Ingredients (9)
Ingredients (9)
Instructions
Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat.
Add the lamb and cook, turning frequently, until browned on all sides, about 15 minutes.
Turn off the heat and carefully pour out and discard the lamb fat.
Return the pot to the stove and add enough water to cover the lamb by an inch or two. Bring to a simmer over low heat, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface.
Add the carrot, onion, celery, and bay leaf and simmer, skimming the surface occasionally, until the meat is fork-tender and nearly falling off the bone, at least 1 hour.
Strain the stock and set aside the lamb and aromatics to serve as a main course. Pour the stock into a clean large pot. Bring to a boil over high heat.
Season with salt. Add the su filindeu and cook until the pasta has lost its raw flavor, about 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, divide the cheese evenly among four to six individual serving bowls.
Ladle over some stock to melt the cheese, then divide the su filindeu (1 lb) evenly among the bowls and serve.
Notes
Notes
The acidulated cheese used in Lula for this dish is virtually impossible to track down outside Sardinia. Substitute a soft, tangy fresh pecorino or cow’s-milk cheese that melts easily. Use the best quality meat you can find. It will pay huge flavor dividends in the final stock.
This recipe is part of the Food of the Italian Islands digital cookbook, and is only available once you've purchased the cookbook.
Purchase ($25.00)
